Across Kharnak
Between the Indus valley and Zanskar, on the western edge of Rupshu lies a remote region called Kharnak, an area sparsely inhabited by semi-nomadic peoples. Their simple winter villages and tented summer encampments s are the only sign of civilization you will see on this demanding high-altitude trek. Crossing Karnak by way of its vast valleys, deep gorges and barren deserts takes a minimum of 8 days, the best time for the trek is June to September.
- Distance: 5-6hrs
- Elevation:4070m/13,350ft/3660m/12,010ft
- Walk in the river bed until you are almost past the neat village of Chogdo.
- The village gompa is up the valley to the northwest some 20 mins walk away.
- Leaving shang-sumdo village and continue for the chu-skirmo village.
- Distance: 5-6hrs
- Elevation:4720m/15,490ft/5100m/16,730ft
- Climb up the Gongmaru la very slowly, the altitude gain on the first stage is rapid from the top of the pass there are good views over the Zanskar Range and of the vertical ice walls of north face of Kang-Yatse peak.
- The trail ascents steeply from the pass to Nimaling.
- Distance:6-7hrs
- Elevation:5183m/16,570ft
- Ford the Nimaling chu to the flat grassy area between the two rivers.
- This is a possible campsite (3950m/21,000ft).
- The trail stays close to the river crossing several times.
- There are lovely views to snow field up the left branch.
- Distance:6-7hrs
- Elevation: 5050m/16,570ft/4080m/13,390ft
- Head west from the pass and descend the steep zig-zag trail to the south-west.
- In Sora there is a pleasant campsite(4300m/14,110ft).
- Sorra/Kurna Kur(4080m/13,390ft).
- Distance:5-6hrs
- Elevation:4080m/13,390ft/4250m/13,940ft
- Follow the Sorra gorge into a dramatic and beautiful canyon.
- Follow the new valley up stream all the way to Dat.
- There are several campsites in these parts of the gorge.
- Distance: 6-7hrs.
- Elevation:4250m/13,940ft
- The two villages are unlikely any in other areas like Ladakh and the gompa looks neglected.
- There are winter quarters of semi-nomadic herder’s who leave in summers with their live-stock for grazing.
- There are plenty campsites on the wide flood plain beneath the village.
- Distance: 4-5hrs
- Elevation: 4250m/13,940ft/4850m/15,910ft
- There is no water on this section of the trail until the base of the Yar-La. So, take plenty of waters.
- The grandeur of the landscape with its sweeping plains and vast valley marks the transition between the Zanskar Mountains and Rupshu.
- Head south-east across a vast flat-bottomed valley known as Ramerthang.
- The rolling scenery of Rupshu valley lies ahead of you, while to the north- north west you can see all the way back to the Zalung Karpo La.
- Distance: 5-6 hrs
- Elevation: 4850m/15,910ft/ 4500m/14,770ft
- Descend easily down a sandy spur to the confluence of two streams bed.
- Carry on down-stream to the abandoned village of Lungmoche.
- The next stage takes you across an intimidating desert landscape for an hour.
- Sangtha(4300m/14,110ft) many of these small place inhabitants are Tibetan nomads. It is situated on the banks of the Zara River.
- Distance:5-6hrs
- Elevation: 4500m/14,770ft /4450m/14,660ft
- The trail to Pogmar La follows up the steep hill side to a crag on top of the ridge.
- Pogmar la (4800m/15,750 ft) below the pass is a wide plain of kanchuthang a grazing ground in summer for the people of Pogmar.
- Half way across the plain is the Leh-Manali Highway visible if there is any vehicle passing through.
- Pang (4450m/14,660ft) pang is around 2 to two and a half hours drive, there are many tea tents about an hour further.