
The Region
- Geographical Background
Ladakh lies in the eastern half of Jammu and Kashmir state in the far north of India.it shares its much-disputed north western border with Pakistan, while to the north lies the Chinese province of Sinkiang, and to the east, chines occupied Tibet. Covering an area of about 60,000 sq. km and ranging in elevation from 2600m to 7670m (8500ft to 25,165ft), it is the largest and highest union territory in India. A further 37,000 sq. km of north east Ladakh, an area called the Aksai Chin, is currently illegal occupied by China.
Ladakh is sandwiched between two vast mountain system: the Himalaya to the south and the Karakorum to the north, it is the latter range which provides the region with its highest peak, Saser Kangri(7670M/25,165ft).Between the two ranges are the Ladakh and the Zanskar mountain, north and south of the Indus valley respectively. These run north – west to south-east, almost as far as Nepal in the case of the Zanskar mountains, and have peak of mainly between 5000m to 6000m.
- Geographic regions of Ladakh
Ladakh’s heartland is the central Indus Valley. This runs from Khalsi in the west to Upshi in the east, bounded by the Ladakh Mountains to the north and the Zanskar Mountains to the south.
This region of deep valleys and high mountains to the north of Ladakh Range encompasses the Nubra and Shayok valleys and the eastern end of the Karakoram Mountains. It can be reached by road from Leh over the 5602m(18,380ft) Khardung La, reputedly the highest motorable road in the world.
This dry, high-altitude plateau (4000-5500m) is in the south-east of Ladakh. If you’re travelling up from Manali by bus, it’s the first region you see. It’s the western fringe of the much larger area of Chang Tang, which spreads east into Tibet for about 1500km to the province of Qinghai in China, and whose landscape is characterized by vast plains, rolling mountains and brackish lakes.
Between the Great Himalayan Range and the jagged mountains of the Zanskar Range is the 300km-long valley of Zanskar. Access can be gained only by crossing high passes which effectively cut off the valley from the rest of the world during winter. With an average valley-bottom altitude of 4000m(13,000ft), it’s one of the world’s highest inhabited regions. The two major rivers are the Stod and the Lungnak which join to form the mighty Zanskar. This eventually merges with the Indus having cut an impressive gorge through the Zanskar Mountains.
The area around the town of Kargil is sometimes referred to as Lower Ladakh. It comprises a number of river valleys, principally the Suru, Drass, Wakha, and the Indus, downstream of Khalsi. The altitude here is lower than the rest of Ladakh so vegetation is much more varied. Further to the west is the Zoji La, Ladakh’s western gateway, which takes you over the Great Himalayan Range into Kashmir.
- CLIMATE
There’s a saying that anyone whose head is in the sun and feet are in the shade in Ladakh will endure both heatstroke and frostbite at the same time. While this is something of an exaggeration, in summer the sun is incredibly powerful but step into shade and you may need an extra layer of clothing. Night temperatures are comfortably cool. Altitude also plays a strong role in regulating the temperature. One day you can be trekking at 3000m in the stifling heat, the next day you can be battling over a 5000m pass in a blizzard. Generally, summer days are a warm 20-25 C.
Winter is a different matter. Even in Leh the thermometer rarely rises above freezing and has been known to drop as low as -35 C. In Zanskar and the far west of Ladakh temperatures as low as this are more frequent.
Ladakh is dry in the extreme; a typical year sees under 150mm of rainfall which produces the characteristically barren landscape. This is because the Great Himalayan Range forms an almost impenetrable barrier for the monsoon clouds that sweep up from the south across the rest of the subcontinent. Recent years have been a slight change in the normal weather pattern with some rain-bearing clouds crossing the mountains in August and early September, producing a few days of light rain.
In central Ladakh little snow falls in winter while in Zanskar and the far west of Ladakh, especially around Drass, substantial falls are common. Valley travel becomes arduous without skis in the deep unconsolidated snow and avalanches are a constant hazard in narrow steep-sided valleys.
Buddhism was flourishing in western Ladakh well before the Tibetans arrived, possibly taking root as early as the 2nd century while much of eastern Ladakh and western Tibet was still practicing ancient Bon religion, an animistic belief presided over by shaman priests. The Buddhist influence came via India and in particular, Kashmir. The rapid rise of Hinduism throughout India forced Indian Buddhist monks to seek sympathetic areas to which they could migrate. Many travelled to Ladakh bringing with them their artistic skills and religious beliefs. The 8th century rock-carving of the Maitreya, or future Buddha, at Mulbekh is a fine example of Buddhist art in the Indian tradition, prior to the Tibetans.
Nyimagon’s dynasty was keen to nurture Buddhism and help encourage its revival in Tibet, a move which became known as the second spreading. By the 12th and 13th centuries Buddhism was well established in Tibet but had been replaced by Hinduism in India and Islam in Kashmir. Ladakh, unable to rely on its traditional religious and cultural guides, turned instead to Tibet. A strong bond developed between their monasteries with young Ladakhi monks being sent to Tibet to be trained in the finger points of monastic life. This tradition continued for over 700 years until Chinese occupation of Tibet put a stop to it.
It was at the beginning of the seventeenth century, during the reign of Jamyang Namgyal, Tsewang’s brother, that the proponents of Islam made the most concerted effort to convert Ladakh once and for all. The Baltistan army under Ali Mir stormed through the country destroying all Buddhist artefacts that they came across and thwarting the Ladakhi’s attempt to stop them. Today there are few gompas that date from before his catastrophic episode as most were razed to the ground. Alchi and a few hill gompas are the exception.
Jamyang Namgyal was forced to marry Ali Mir’s daughter, Gyal Katun, and to promise that any offspring from this union would be first in line for the throne, thereby ensuring future Islamic Kings. However, in an ironic twist of fate, her subjects saw the new queen not as a Muslim but as a manifestation of a Buddhist goddess! Buddhism was reconstructed with increased vigour.
For centuries Ladakh has enjoyed a stable economy based on self-reliance. But over the last 50 years, the region has shifted away from this sustainable economy towards one based on dependence on outside forces and is slowly being drawn into a much wider economic sphere over which it has little control.
Misguided policies to help this deprived and backward region, along with the build-up of a large population of Indian troops and the influx of foreign tourists, have all contributed to encouraging a money economy. A materialistic culture where the notion of having a job and buying what you need, rather than producing it your, is now becoming more widespread. While change is inevitable, it doesn’t have to take the form of rapid Western-style modernization.
Ladakh has traditionally been an agricultural subsistence economy based on growing barely, wheat and peas and the keeping of yak, dzos (yak-cow cross-breeds), cows, sheep and goats. At lower elevations fruit is grown successfully, while the high-altitude Rupshu region is the preserve of nomadic herders. Surplus produce is traded for tea, sugar, salt and various luxuries such as the semi-precious stones that adorn women’s headdresses, or peraks.
There is little that can be exported for economic gain. Two exceptions, however, are apricots from western Ladakh and pashmina.
Since 1974, when Ladakh was opened to tourists, the industry has expanded rapidly. On average it now receives 18,000 tourists a year. Although in Ladakh as a whole tourism employs only 4% of workers, in Leh it employs 15%. It also accounts for almost 50% of the region’s GNP. See p153 for information on how to limit your impact on Ladakh.
The 200,000 strong population of Ladakh is a result is a result of the blending of many different races, in particular the Tibetans and the Dards.
The nomadic and semi-nomadic Changpa people of the Rupshu plateau are pure Tibetans. It is probably herders like them who first populated Ladakh. Through centuries of experience they have mastered the art of not only living but thriving in one of the most hostile environments on earth. Since the early 1960s their numbers have increased as Chang Tang nomads from across the Tibetan border flee the occupation for their homeland by the Chinese. Leh has also provided a home from home for about 3500 refugees who live in the various camps around the city.
The looks and the way of life of both the Ladakhi’s of central Ladakh and, perhaps even more so, the Zanskaris, reflect a strong influence from central Tibet. Moving west, this influence diminishes and is replaced by that of the Dards. The one exception to this is the Baltis who live around Kargil and the Suru Valley. They have Tibetan origins, speak a language that has Tibetan links and were Buddhists, though today they are devout Shiite Muslims.
These people originate from Gilgit in Pakistan. They now live in Drass and the Dha- Hanu area. Although originally Buddhist, the Dards around Drass have embraced Islam and have been strongly influenced by their Kashmiri neighbor, those in the Dha Hanu area known as Brokpa, have preserved their Buddhist Faith and retain many of their original custom and traditions.
In most villages in Ladakh you will find another group of Dards, the Mons descendants of Ladakh early settlers. whilst these people represent Ladakh’s lower class the segregation is nothing like as severe as that found in the Indian caste system, their traditional roles as musician’s, blacksmith and carpenters are highly valued in the community.
Some of the constant visitors to Ladakh over the centuries have inevitably settled here. This is particularly true of Leh, where you can find small communities of Kashmiris and Central Asians whose forefathers came when it was an important city on the great trade routes across Asia. Thousands of Indian military personnel are the most recent incomers.
- Religion
Ladakh is one of the few places where you can see this branch of Mahayana Buddhism, sometimes also called Lamaism, being practiced as it would have been in Tibet before the brutal Chinese suppression. Buddhism has permeated Ladakhi and Tibetan culture since the 7th century A.D.
Tibetan Buddhism is a mystical religion which absorbed many of the magical and superstitious features of Tibet’s previous shamanistic Bon religion, along with elements of Hindu Tantrism. With an array of deities, beliefs, rituals and symbols it’s incredibly complex but to most Ladakhis, who don’t concern themselves too much with these difficulties, it becomes a practical and down-to-earth philosophy which emphasizes one thing – compassion.
It is usual for most families to have at least one son who is a Lama(monk). At an early age he will be sent to the gompa(monastery) to which his village is attached where he will be educated in the religious teachings. Monks are highly respected in the community and spend a lot of their time away from the gompa performing religious ceremonies in the villages. The heads of gompas are called kushoks and are reincarnations of previous venerated lamas. The head of Tibetan Buddhism and traditional political ruler of Tibet is the Dalai Lama, an incarnation of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. The current Dalai Lama is the 14th in a succession that originated in the 14th century and lives in exile in Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh.
The lamas of Tibetan Buddhism are divided into four main sects. The oldest is the Nyingmapa (the Ancient Order or Red Hat sect), founded by the great sage Padmasambhava in the 8th century. Next came the Sakyapa sect, followed by the last of the Red Hat schools, the Kagyupa. The most recent order is the Gelukpa, more commonly known as the Yellow Hat sect, who came from a reform movement in the 1400s and which is led by the Dalai Lama. All these sects are represented in Ladakh but the most common are the Kagyupa and Gelukpa.
Although Ladakh is usually described as a Buddhist region, there is a large minority of Muslims (about 45%). Constant invasion by Islamic forces in the west of Ladakh gradually led to the conversion of the previously Buddhist people. Most of Ladakhi Muslims still live in Kargil District where they account for 85% of the population. Here they are puritanical Shiites. Leh also supports a small population of Muslims, mainly Sunis, who are decendants from immigrant Kashmiri and central Asian traders.
There is a small community of Christians in Leh. Most belong to the top rungs of Ladakhi society and were converted by the Moravian Missionaries who first came to Ladakh in 1885.
They built two churches, one in Leh and one in Shey.
Getting to India & Ladakh
- Visas :
Unless you are from Nepal or Bhutan you won’t be able to get into India without a Visa. Tourist Visa are available for six months duration only and are valid from the date of issue, not from the date of entry in India. These visas are difficult to extend, please get your visa from the Indian embassy or consulate in your home country.
- By Air :
The nearest international airport to Ladakh is from Delhi, you should book early for the best deal.Delhi to Leh
8 flights per week.
5:00 am | → | 6:20 am | Go Air 215 | Sunday to Saturday | DEL-IXL |
5:45 am | → | 7:10 am | SpiceJet 121 | Sunday to Saturday | DEL-IXL |
6:30 am | → | 7:50 am | Go Air 203 | Sunday to Saturday | DEL-IXL |
6:45 am | → | 8:20 am | Air India 445 | Sunday to Saturday | DEL-IXL |
7:00 am | → | 8:30 am | Vistara 601 | Sunday to Saturday | DEL-IXL |
8:35 am | → | 9:55 am | Go Air 715 | Sunday to Saturday | DEL-IXL |
9:25 am | → | 10:50 am | Go Air 221 | Sunday to Saturday | DEL-IXL |
10:00 am | → | 11:30 am | SpiceJet 123 | Sunday to Saturday | DEL-IXL |
3 flights per week, 1h 5m duration – Jammu (IXJ) to Leh (IXL)
10:15 am | → | 11:20 am | Air India 450 | S | M | – | – | – | F | – | IXJ-IXL |
Connecting flights | |||||||||||
14h 15m+ | Go Air | via New Delhi |
2 flights per week, 50m duration – Srinagar (SXR) to Leh (IXL)
10:20 am | → | 11:10 am | Air India 447 | – | – | – | W | T | – | – | SXR-IXL |
Connecting flights | |||||||||||
12h 35m+ | Go Air | via New Delhi |
- By Surface :
Taxi and Bus service:
There is a direct Delhi to Leh bus service by HRTC that runs from ISBT Kashmiri Gate, New Delhi at 2.30 PM every day. This bus from Delhi to Leh covers the total distance of 1050 km in about 35 Hrs. This direct ;bus stops overnight at Keylong and covers this Delhi to Leh journey in 2 days from Delhi.
Manali to Leh is a 474 km long journey and the direct bus from Manali to Leh takes about 17-18 Hrs. Other buses including the HPTDC bus service covers the journey from Manali to Leh in two days with an overnight stop at Keylong. The from Delhi to Leh also takes two days with an overnight stop at Keylong.
Taxi from Manali to Leh everyday departure.
Srinagar to Leh via Kargil
Taxi departure from Srinagar from Tourist Center
Duration 10 to 11 hrs.
LEH AND BEYOND
Leh
Leh, the capital of Ladakh, lies nestled among low hills on the north side of the Indus Valley, between the Stok Mountains to the south and the Ladakh Range to the north. For centuries it has been a place where travelers of different nationalities have rested, before continuing over the mountains along the ancient trade routes that radiate from the city.
Ladakhi women sell vegetable along shady side of the Main Bazar; old men and women spin hand-held prayer wheels in the narrow side streets; Muslims congregate in animated conversation around the mosque.
It’s worth spending a few days in Leh before embarking on your trek, not only to acclimatize to the rarefied air but to give yourself time to explore the fascinating villages nearby Leh is a small town with a population of about 45,000. Because of this it’s easy to escape from the vibrant chaos of the center by walking out into the surrounding fields along poplar- and willow-lined paths.
Orientation
Everything is within walking distance. The central focus is the Main Bazaar, a wide and straight street with the Royal Palace above it at one end. The majority of shops are found along this road at ground level and popular restaurants take up the first-floor space. The old town, a fascinating network of rabbit-warren streets, is immediately beneath the Palace, while the rest of Leh sprawls away downhill from here.
The main bus stand, hospital, Tourist Reception Centre and post office are all outside the center along the road leading south to the airport.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Areas
There is a wide range of accommodation in Leh from cheap guest-houses (Rs 500 -700) to expensive hotels (over Rs 2000). Restaurants, Shops, Trekking Agencies, Bus, Taxis are all nearby making it the most convenient place to stay. Guest-houses and hotels are dotted all around the town.
Prices vary enormously depending on the time of year. The high season of July and August is when the hotels are at their most expensive.
Many places are closed between November and May. Two or three of the big hotels stay open all year round and many of the guesthouses will let you stay even though they’re not officially open.
WHERE TO EAT
Most guest-houses and hotels can provide you with a simple breakfast of bread and jam, an omelet or maybe some porridge along with tea coffee. Others go much than this and provide their guests with an evening meal as well.
Most of the more upmarket hotels have restaurants as part of their complexes and it is possible to get your accommodation and meals covered under one tariff.
The bakeries are a good place to stock up for homemade breakfasts, lunches and for those in-between times. The most popular are the Pumpernickel German Bakery, The Penguin Bakery on Ford Road and the Otsal Swiss Bakery on the road to Chanspa, which has a rooftop terrace with views of the mountains. They all sell similar fare which seems quite expensive considering you could get a full meal for the price of a slice of cake.
The majority of restaurants in Leh fit into this wide-ranging category. Prices don’t vary enormously wherever you go and are generally between Rs 250 and Rs 300 for a main meal. Standard dishes on the menus include soup, chop- suey, chow Mein, momos and all manner of rice dishes, all of which can be ordered with meat or vegetables. Most will also have a go at some easy western dishes in an attempt to satisfy everyone’s palate. There are number of such places along the Main Bazar, all of which are above street level. The Wok Tibetan Kitchen is always popular, as is Amdo Foods.
Good Indian Cuisine is surprisingly hard to find in Leh. The popular Summer Harvest Restaurant specializes in Indian and Kashmiri dishes and has Tibetan and Chinese food as well. The Badshah Inn Restaurant, on a top floor to the left of the Mosque, makes up for its lack of atmosphere with a wide selection of delicious Indian, Kashmiri and Tandoori dishes. The Dreamland Hotel incorporates a respected restaurant that serves Indian dishes among others as does the restaurant at the Hotel Ibex.
Most places have a few easy-cook western meals on their menus. Fried egg and chips to satisfy the most homesick Brit are available almost everywhere, as are other travelers favorites such as banana and honey pancakes, mashed potatoes, cheese and various styles of spaghetti. If you are really craving some western food the dark and the intimate German Bakery Coffee House has Lasagnia, Pizza and Burger for health freaks.
Leh enjoys a warm summer climate, as do the tourists who can lounge in one of the town’s many outdoor entries whose cuisine falls into the ‘have a go at anything’ category. The Penguin German Bakery Restaurant and Bar on Fort Road is a good place to treat yourselves to a bowl of ‘Penguin Soup’. Also, on fort road is Hotel Yak Tail where you can enjoy well cooked Chinese and Indian dishes whilst relaxing in their beautiful courtyard. If you want to watch the world go by, perch yourself under a rooftop umbrellas of La Terrace opposite the State Bank of India.
Places of interest beyond Leh
Scattered along the Indus Valley, both east and west of Leh, are other fascinating towns, villages, monasteries and palaces. Some are visited by almost every traveler who comes to Ladakh while other remain the preserve of the dedicated few. A tour of the gompas is high on most people’s lists. Whether you decide to see as many as possible or to spend more time at one or two is up to you, If your time is limited it may be more convenient to hire a taxi for a day between three or four people. A round trip taking in Shey, Thiksey, Hemis and Stok, or if you’ve got the energy you could add Chemre, Tak Tok, Matho and Stakna. A tour to the west stopping at Basgo, Likir, Alchi and Lamayuru. You can usually visit gompas between 8am and 5pm.
West of Leh
This was the first Gelukpa monastery to be established in Ladakh. This monastery was built in the 15th century on the site of an 11th century temple and is situated on top of a small hill there are good views over the Indus valley. From the main town of Leh the gompa is 5km very close to the Leh airport. When getting into Leh airport just before the flight lands you could see a clear view of the gompa right outside your window.
The building of this 16ht century gompa sits on a small hill above the attractive village and like Lamayuru belong to the Kagyupa order of monks. The monastery in Phyang is an hour drive from Leh main town.
The choskor or religious enclave, is one of the most important cultural sites in Ladakh, built in the 11 centuries. It is a treasure trove of early art in the Kashmiri tradition, a style quite different from the Tibetan art found in Ladakh’s other monasteries. Also, unlike the other gompa’s. it is hidden down by the river rather than in the more usual elevated position. This may explain why it want destroyed by the various invaders who have passed by throughout the centuries. Alchi is one of the few remaining examples of that era. The village and gompa is reached by crossing the Indus just beyond Saspol.
The solitary Gelukpa Monastery at Rizong lies up a remote side valley to the north of the main road between Nurla and Saspol. The hike to get to the monastery is interesting one climbing up a desolate gorge until you reach the magnificent monastery which spans the narrow valley.
Gelukpa monastery is known for their strict discipline but Rizong is reputed to be the strictest of them all. The gompa just over 160 years old contains little historical interest but its location in this quiet valley is worth the walk.
The gompa in Lamayuru is one of the most immediately striking in Ladakh. Its position on top of a beautifully eroded crag, complete with rock pinnacles and caves, gives it an almost fairy-tale quality as it stands over the small village below. The site of the monastery is probably the oldest in Ladakh with the first temple, like so many others, being built at the time of Rinchen Zangpo. The monastery is officially called Yun-dung tharpa ling or place of freedom, after it was declared a holy site in the 16th century. It now belongs to the Kagyupa sect. Lamayuru lies at a distance of 120 km from Leh around 3hrs drive. There are several places to stay in the village.
Downstream from khalsi, along the lower Indus, live a unique group of Dard people known as brokpa , in most other areas the dards have been influenced by either the Tibetans or by the Muslims but here they have retained much of their original culture, they are a fascinating tribe who are very different from other Ladakhi’s with their strong aryan loos, language and clothing. The journey from Leh to dha takes six hours and goes via khalsi, where you will be asked to show your permit. The village is above the road, apart from the small gompa I Dha there is little to see in the vicinity and few walks that are of any interest.
Travellers should be aware that kargil is very close to the line of control between India and Pakistan. The small Muslim town of kargil is the overnight halt for all travellers between Leh and Srinagar and is the jumping off point for journeys up the Suru valley and into Zanskar, so hotels are used to travellers arriving late and leaving early the next morning.
South of the main Indus valley on the northern edge of the great Himalaya range lies Zanskar, one of the most isolated inhabited valleys of the Himalaya. Enclosed by giant mountains, this spectacular region is accessible in summer only by crossing high passes or for about six weeks in the depths of winter when you can travel on foot along the frozen surface of the Zanskar river through a long narrow gorge. The rough roads from kargil connects the Zanskar valley, much f Zanskar is a fascinating working example of traditional self-supporting communities. The small villages surrounded by highly productive fields, nestle in the valleys and magnificent gompa’s cling defiantly to the crags and ridges above.
Most visitors to these remote are trekker’s as the main town of Padum is the starting point for several strenuous but spectacular treks across the convoluted Zanskar Mountains, or across the Himalaya to Lahaul. From mid-June to the end of October the road over the pensi-la. from kargil it runs south up the suru valley. As you climb toward the Pensi-la , only 20 km on from here, south-leading side valley allows glimpses of glaciers and snow draped Peak, but the most impressive view of all awaits you at the summit of the pass( 4440m/14,440ft).carving its way through the Himalaya and surrounded by sheer-sided mountain, the Drang-Drung glacier’s a spectacular sight. The road follows the river east past well cared for Zanskari village.
On the opposite bank near the village of Ating, a trail leads south to the umasi-la through a gorge in which the small Kagyupa monastery of Dzongkhul is situated. The rock face gompa was founded by the great Buddhist scholar Naropa almost 1000 years ago and is now an important retreat for meditation. On the way to Padum crosses on to the south bank of the Stod while the road ahead leads to Gelukpa Gompa of Karsha, the largest monastery in Zanskar. Continuing on to Padum, you soon reach the village of Sani (a gentle two hour walk from Padum). Behind the gompa is the 1000-year-old Kanishka stupa, one of the most sacred monuments in Zanskar.
Ongoing from Padum one goes to the temple and village of Pibiting crosses the Lungnak River and continues via Thonde, where there is an attractive Gelukpa monastery high on a cliff, to Zangla, here a ruined fortress, once the royal residency, sits high above the current village on top of a precipice. The other road is steadily forcing its way up the Lungnak River past Bardan to Murne.
South -East of Leh
This is a Tibetan refugee village where the Dalai Lama has his beautiful temporary residence and where the central institute of Buddhist studies is based.
This was the old capital and the home of the kings of Ladakh before the new capital became established in Leh. The palace sits in a strategic position on a spur jutting out in to the Indus valley. The main temple contains a large Buddha statue sculpted by Nepalese craftsmen. In the courtyard there is an impressive gold-topped stupa, best viewed from above. The top of the palace is reached by some very dilapidated steps from here there are wonderful views across to Stok and Spituk and also of the hundreds of Stupas on the desert to the north-east.
If you see only one monastery, make it Thiksey. This large gompa is an impressive sight, situated on top of a craggy hill while the rest of the complex sprawls down beneath it. It was founded in the 15th century by Gelukpa monks. The temple on the right of the courtyard hoses a 15-meter statue of the Maitreya or future Buddha which was finished in 1981. While at the back of the Dukhang there is a buddha statue dating from the 15th century. The monks are helpful and friendly and the whole gompa is well cared for.
This has been the royal palace since the king was dethroned by the Dogra’s and is now the home of the last king’s widow. There is an interesting museum that contains an odd collection of exhibits including the king’s tea cup holder, the queen’s turquoise head-dress, some armour and a stuffed yak. The nearby Gompa is worth visiting.
The monastery is situated at the foot the Stok mountains midway between Hemis and Stok. This is the only Sakyapa gompa in Ladakh and has become famous for its annual festival, during which specially chosen monks become the vehicle for an Oracle. For several days they answer’s people’s questions and predicts the following years event while in a trance. There is a tiny museum on the left side of the courtyard which is worth seeing. Right on the top of the gompa there is a highly revered room of the oracle. photography must not be taken.
This Kagyupa gompa is located in a commanding position on its own plug of rock in the center of the Indus valley. It lies between Hemis and Matho and is reached by taking the bumpy road along the left bank of the Indus river or is accessible even by the main Manali-Leh highway taking the narrow bridge that cuts into stakna village.
The gompa was founded in the 17th century, the huge statue of Guru Padmasambhava which is in the temple behind the Dukhang is 12 meters high and was completed in 1984. The village and gompa lie tucked up a little side valley south-west of Karu. As you drive up to it you pass two enormous mani walls. This monastery has become famous because of its spectacular annual festival. It’s even more special if you can co-ordinate your visit with the unfurling of the monastery vast thanka. Thought to be biggest int eh world. However, its only displayed only at every 12th festival.
This Kagyupa gompa looks more impressive from afar than close up, sitting astride a hill high above the village, situated half way along the quiet road from Karu to Tak Tok, its worth a visit if you are passing. It was built in 1645.
Tak Tok means Rock roof and this little interesting monastery is built around a cave where it is believed Padmasambhava lived and meditated for a while. The cave is now a cool dark temple. This is the only gompa in Ladakh of the Nyingma sect, the oldest Tibetan order.
Protected Areas
After years of speculation, the sensitive border region of Nubra was finally opened to foreigners in 1994. Access is possible all year around as the army endeavors to keep the road over the Khardungla free of snow, even in winter.
The district is characterized by spectacular deep, sheer-sided valleys, high mountains and long glaciers. It is here that you will find the highest peak in Ladakh, Saser Kangri(7670m/25,165ft) which was first climbed in 1973 and also one of the longest glaciers in the region, that 70km Siachen glacier. Sandwiched between the Karakoram mountains to the north and the Ladakh range to the south lie the Shyok and Nubra rivers. The fertile villages are scattered along these two valley floors. Because of the lower altitude a wide diversity of fruits, vegetables and grain are grown, creating the impression of abundance.
Khalsar is an unpleasant hamlet dominated by an army camp, there are several dhabas for simple nourishment and some basic guest houses and campsite for accommodation. The road divided just before the bridge over the shyok river and continues north up the Nubra valley to Panamik.
The village is well known for its beautiful gompa perched on a Rocky spur200m above the village with a breath-taking view. Accommodation in the village is spread out, there are shops in the village where you can buy basic supplies.
Hundar has a small gompa by the road with ancient frescoes in the Kashmiri tradition, above the road there are two other temples on the way up to a ruined gompa on a crag, the camel safari is one thing you will love to do. These camels are descendants of the beast of burden which piled the trade route between Leh and central India.
North of Khalsar over the bridge across the shyok river is the Nubra valley. Sumur is one of the larger villages here with several places to stay which makes it a good base for visiting the nearby samstanling gompa. The monastery is situated at the mouth of a small ravine and is surrounded by poplar trees.
Panamik lies at the north end of the Nubra valley and is unjustly famed for its hot springs. The two baths are housed in a concrete building on the hill side. There are some nice walks down by the river and a good five-hour excursion across the valley to Ensa gompa, which can be seen from Panamik high on the mountain side with its small willow grove and fields. There is some great campsite with great facilities.
This vast lake, 150 km long and 4 km wide, stretches from the north-east of Ladakh across the border into Tibet. The lake has no outlet so the water has a high salt and mineral content. because of this the lake cannot support aquatic life, hence it is distinctive and beautiful shades of blue also described as ‘azure sheen or turkis blew’. There are some interesting birds around the lake shore including a few pair of the very rare and endangered black-necked crane.
These high-altitude lakes are situated in the Rupshu region of eastern Ladakh near the border with Tibet the true beauty of the region lies in its vast untamed space, silence, rare wildlife and nomadic inhabitants. Pangong Tso, Tsomoriri and Tsokar all have extremely fragile eco system and provide habitats for some rare species of birds, they are the only breeding grounds for bar-headed geese in India and the only breeding ground for back-necked crane outside china.
Tso-kar is a lake surrounded by white heaps of saline deposits in a vast dusty bowl surrounded by barren mountains, it supports a vital salt industry that allows the Changpas to trade with merchants from the rest of Ladakh. Thuk-jey the small dusty village on the northern shore of the lake has a tiny gompa. There is a fresh water lake to the south-east of Tso kar called startssapuk Tso and herds of kiangs (Tibetan wild ass) often graze on the plain nearby. The road east crossed the polokongka la and descends to the puga valley where there are hot springs, it then heads south past the small lake of thatsang Karu to Tso-moriri.
The brackish Tso-moriri is surrounded by snow-topped mountains, this unique habitat attracts many migratory water birds including brahminy ducks, black-necked cranes, great crested grebes, ruddy shelduck, teals sand plovers, and the rare bar-headed geese which cross the Himalaya to breed here during the summer around the inlets of the lake. On the western shore the small village is called Korzok which has a gompa.